MikeyLikes.IT

I’ve been meaning to post this for days, but the last few steps seem to take for ever to get to.

First of all lets talk about studio lights and why we have soft boxes, one of the key things about studio lighting is even lighting across your subject.  The keys are to have a bright light, and then defuse it so that the light hits the subject evenly. I’d like to thank a few other sites for inspiring my own design. http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Softbox/

So my design is simple, I already had a 2×6 available, and the 2×2s where also available as well.  Since I wanted a portable, and easy to store unit, I picked up some hinges.  Here’s the parts list in full.

6 - 2″ by 2″ by 2′ - I’d assume most people know what wood looks like

1 - 2″ by 8″ by 6′ -

6 - 2″ by 2″ hinges -

4 - 2′ by 4′ Masonite sheets

4 - Pancake boxes - 5 for a buck fifty

4 - lightbulb holders - simple plastic or ceramic about 5 bucks

1 - light switch box - standard plastic box - donated about 50 cents

1 - dimmer switch -5 bucks

1 - 6 ‘ long plain white curtain - One i found was only 6 bucks in the store, plain white

4 - full spectrum light bulbs like either incandescent bulb, or a flood light

10 feet of 14 gauge wire, I used 12 gauge because it was handy.

Some wire hooks/staples for obvious reasons.

An AC plug to stick in the wall outlet.

Finally some white paint to make the light shine

If you’re smart you’ll also pick up a GFCI outlet to wire in for safety sake or use a proper surge protector.  I went for the surge protector option because well..  It was already available.

Wood was recycled from someone’s water bed, Dimmer switch was recycled, and the wire was already available from other projects.

Net costs was about 40 bucks including the hinges, lamp holders and boxes, and some masonite panels.

Disclaimer:  The following steps require someone with knowledge in both basic carpentry skills and electrition skills.  The steps below should not befollowed unless you posess these skills and can interperate them correctly.

gather your materials... remember to clean off the workbench before taking photos

Step 1:  Gather parts.  Unless you’re lucky to have everything already cut to length you’ll have to do some trimming.

Step 2:  Mount the support arms to the back bone with the hinges.  I attached the hinges to the support arms, then used a square to align the hinges to the backbone and bolted them on.  If you have the ability to, pre-drill the holes preferably with a drill press and properly square holes.  I spaced mine out so that one was dead middle, the top was near the top, and the bottom was 5 inches off the ground.  I didn’t want the hinges touching the ground, or anything with a nail near the ground.

Step 3: Join the support arms together with the 1″x2″ so you have the skeleton and it should be free standing.  At this point you should have a 3 legged free standing skeleton.

Step 4:  Add the electrical boxes, I originally bought 5, but 4 spaced out nicely for me.  I might add in the 5th instead of returning it, but we’ll see.  Add the switch box as well.  Mine is mounted at the bottom, but I can think of a dozen places to put it.  I wouldn’t call my location the most conveinent, but it was the most logical in terms of wire use, and least likely to get kicked or bumped.  Now these pancake boxes don’t have side exit points for the wire so I had to improvise by slipping a 1×2 behind it to allow wire to exit through the normal means.  Its better to follow the standard than muck around and screw up the structual integrety.

two lamps just wired together

Step 5:  Run some wire, I started with a 9 foot piece of wire, pulled about 8 inches into the top box, then pulled wire into each box leaving a 6-8 inch folded segment of wire in each box.  Out side the boxes I used wire staples to ensure no loose wires.  This is a major safety thing, don’t cheep out!

Step 6: Starting from the top, Connect the lamp holders, read the instructions.  Silver for the white wire, brass for the black wire.  Wire the ground if available.  Attach the holder to the box.  Cut the wires at the folds for easier stripping of the insulation.  Be sure not to remove more insulation than required.  And don’t allow any bare wires to get close to another bare wire.

Step 7:  Wire the switch/dimmer.  At this point, I change wires from a romex wall wire to an extention cord grade wire.  DIY AC plug adapters will take any kind of wire, and you should avoid using a braided wire on the basis it’s easier to screw up.  The first cord I found for the job was way underrated (16 or 18 gauge) and ended up using a 14 gauge wire instead.  If you have a keen eye, you’ll notice 12 gauge between the lamps.

lights and wires are good. Threw on the defuser cloth for some immediate fun.

Step 8:  Test the wires.  make sure you use a surge protector in case there is a fault.  If you did things right you should have a GFCI as well, but make sure to use a surge protector the first time.  Its alot better than making sure your outlets are fault protected (and alot easier to reset).

Construction Complete, time to paint!

Step 9:  Cut and attach the masonitte backing.  This should attach to the out side of the frame.

Paint - its utilitiarian paint, don't remind me I missed a spot.

Step 10:  Paint - I choose to paint just the inside and only the parts that needed to reflect light. Masonite is pretty ugly, but the backbone looks quite nice in its wood color.  If I get some black paint i’ll spash the masonite with it.